Essentials

Belinda Luksic was a guest of Bretagne Tourism • Brittany Ferries (brittanyferries.co.uk) sails from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo from £43 return • Hôtel Le Grand Bé (00 33 2 23 18 99 90; legrandbe. com) has double rooms from £125 per night • The two-hour “All the Light We Cannot See” walking tour costs £7 per person (balades armoricaines. fr)