ALDI

The discount supermarket has strengthened its premium wine offerings in recent years but, for me, it’s the cheaper, under £8, wines that are the real draw. Of course, there are notable exceptions: Aldi’s Veuve Monsigny Champagne Brut NV (12.5%, Aldi, £14.99) is a chattering classes favourite, and with good reason.

Some of Aldi’s reds are a little sweet, which isn’t my bag, although it’s a popular style. But in terms of white wine, I like the Specially Selected Margaret River Kooliburra Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Australia (12%, Aldi, £8.99), which is actually a sauvignon-semillon blend (there’s just 8% semillon, so it doesn’t have to be declared on the label) and in that lemongrass style.

Into dessert wine? Aldi also has a ridiculously good sauternes under its own label: Specially Selected Sauternes 2016,

Bordeaux, France (14%, Aldi,

£10.99 for 37.5cl) is made by the garlanded Château Suduiraut.

With Christmas in mind, there is also 8 Year Old Muscat Dessert Wine NV, Australia (18%, Aldi, £9.99 for 37.5cl), which tastes of raisins and caramel.

BEST-VALUE WHITE:

Pierre Jaurant Côtes de Gascogne 2021, France

(11%, Aldi, £4.99)

The tangy citrus and gentle florals of whites from Gascony are often among the best cheap supermarket styles.

BEST-VALUE RED:

Mimo Moutinho Dão 2021, Portugal

(13%, Aldi, £5.99)

There were a number of candidates here, but this one deserves the limelight. A Portuguese red made from touriga nacional grapes, it is completely dry and tastes of plums and dark fruit with a touch of dust.

CHOICE CHRISTMAS FIZZ:

Organic Prosecco NV, Italy (11.5%, Aldi, £7.99)

A decent prosecco for those who love this Italian sparkling wine.