M&S

M&S has just begun a large overhaul of its wine range so it’s hard to make generalisations, but I will say that I wish its wines didn’t try so hard to be all things to all people. That said, there are some interesting wines and grapes on the shelves here, including the lovely, rich Found Alicante Bouschet 2021, Portugal (14%, M&S, £8). There’s also some lovely Aussie shiraz, notably M&S Collection Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021, Australia (14.5%, M&S, £14).

BEST-VALUE WHITE:

M&S Found Ribolla Gialla 2021, Italy

(12.5%, M&S, £7.50)

There’s a little weight in this wine which tastes of yellow plums with a tang of tangerine peel.

BEST-VALUE RED:

El Duque de Miralta Rioja Crianza 2018, Spain

(13.5%, M&S, £10)

Made for M&S by El Coto, this is a lovely, mellow rioja reminiscent of fading autumn leaves and baked strawberry pie.

CHOICE CHRISTMAS FIZZ:

Herbert Beaufort Carte d’Or Grand Cru Brut NV, France

(12%, M&S, £32)

A beautiful winter champagne, from a producer based in Bouzy in the Montagne de Reims, this is made from 90% pinot noir with just 10% chardonnay. It makes me think of frozen black cherry yoghurt and cherry stalks. Lovely.