‘For good-value Champagne, I really rate the supermarket own labels’

VICTORIA MOORE ON THE BEST BARGAIN FIZZ

One decision that lots of people make and I never would? The ‘half price’ Champagne purchase. I know. ‘Champagne’ is an abracadabra word; just saying it casts a spell that settles like a haze of good cheer, while the prospect of a hefty discount convinces that it’s a safe – if not a canny – option.

Can I phrase this choice a different way? For the same cost, would you rather drink a distinctly average and quite possibly insipid product from a brand you’ve never heard of, or a firstclass sparkling wine from elsewhere? Sitting in my kitchen with all the bottles and a couple of glasses in front of them, friends unfailingly take a few sips and pick the second option.

There’s a catch, of course. If you’re picking the boutique sparkling then you need a specific recommendation. Happily, you’re in the right place for that. I have a few. I’m sorry that two are from the same London wine merchant but it is possible to order online. Top of my list is a crémant from Domaine des Hauts Perrays in the Loire (see right for details). JL Denois Tradition Crémant de Limoux Extra Brut NV, France (Lea & Sandeman, £17.50 or £15.95 in a mixed case) is also superb. Made from chardonnay and pinot noir, it is similar in style to a Champagne and won top marks from some of my tasters who enjoyed its warm notes of nougat and brioche. J Laurens Crémant de Limoux NV, France (Booths, £15.50) is excellent though in a different, much more bracing style with some of the verve of an English sparkling, all green apple sherbet and lemon shortcake. For those wondering why I’m not recommending English sparkling here, it’s because the good ones fall into a higher price bracket than the one in discussion.

If Champagne is what you are after, then of the cheaper and widely available ones I really rate some supermarket own-labels. Most of my acquaintances, I think, as well as most of you, already know Aldi’s bargain Veuve Monsigny. If you’re after the best Champagne for the least number of pounds then Veuve Monsigny III Champagne Brut NV, France (Aldi, £14.99) is it. The ultimate party Champagne, it’s a blend made up of almost equal parts of the three main Champagne grapes, with a smell reminiscent of warm bread sauce.

Smaller groups have more attention to spare on the wine so it’s worth trading up. Les Pionniers Champagne Brut NV, France (Co-op, £19.50) is the best champagne under £20: pristine and focused with flavours of red apples and toasted almonds and a saline finish. It’s pinotdominated and made by Piper-heidsieck but much cheaper than the branded wine.

Perhaps best of all is Finest* Premier Cru Champagne Brut NV, France (Tesco, right); blanc de noirs fans should check out Champagne Drappier Premier Cru Brut NV (also right), a Champagne to sip after a Boxing Day walk.

Finally, two cheaper tips, both very good, but don’t expect them to taste like the more expensive wines. I love the tight freshness and acerbic Bramley apple edge of Maison Antech ‘Mademoiselle Marguerite’ Blanquette de Limoux Brut NV (Majestic, £12.99 or £10.99 in a mixed six) which is made from 90% mauzac. In a fuller, richer style, Boschendal Brut NV, Western Cape, South Africa (Waitrose, £10 down from £16.99 until 1 January) is a really good buy.