Undercover operation: the lingerie revolution

Times and lingerie trends may have changed, but it’s still what’s underneath that counts, says fashion writer Laura Craik During the pandemic, most women did not look like this photograph of Sofia Loren. Corsets? Far too constricting. Our waists were elasticated, not cinched. But as life opened up again, so did the possibilities in our lingerie drawer. Even the most granny-pant-loving women embraced the opportunities presented by an exciting new breed of lingerie labels focused on glamour but equally focused on choice.

Thanks to innovators such as Savage X Fenty and Skims, no longer is beautiful lingerie the preserve of the skinny: it’s now inclusive of size, race and age. No matter how delicate the lace or complicated the corset, comfort is also, increasingly, key. Designed by the model Rosie Huntingtonwhiteley, Marks & Spencer’s bestselling bra, the underwired plunge, didn’t shift 2.8 million

units on glamour alone: it’s also supremely soft.

Underwired bras may be enjoying a surge in popularity, but those who prefer comfort over cantilever are still well served. If lacy La Perla isn’t your thing, there are myriad other options. Sustainably minded? Try Nudea, whose lingerie is made from recycled materials. Prefer a femalefounded brand? Check out Noelle Wolf or Stripe & Stare. DD+? Opt for Scantilly by Curvy Kate or Bravissimo.

Choice is the thing, and for too long, it felt as though there wasn’t enough of it; that while our wardrobes embraced androgyny, our lingerie drawers were stuck in the 1950s. Women don’t want to be sold lingerie according to the male gaze. Yes, we may wear it for the pleasure of others, but we also wear it for ourselves. The best lingerie is a delicious secret, uplifting the spirit as much as the breast, whether anyone sees it or not.