Plan a trip to the lights fantastic

From Arctic Norway to Canada and Iceland, Sarah Marshall reveals how to maximise your chances of seeing the aurora borealis

Dancing across the night sky to a score of undulating rhythms, the aurora borealis has captivated civilisations for centuries. Arriving after dark, this mysterious phenomenon can take several forms. Most commonly, bands of green arc the horizon, slowly rippling like waves until they crest and fall with such ferocity the darkness of space is swept away by a tsunami of colours.

This light show has given rise to multiple myths and legends, with different cultures developing their own explanations. In Norse mythology, the bifrost was a flaming rainbow bridging middle earth and the gods. Referring to the aurora as aksarnirq, the Inuit believed displays were the souls of dead ancestors, while Finnish Sami folklore tells the story of a magical fox running across the sky and sweeping snow with its tail. And the Japanese believe that a child conceived under the aurora will be blessed with good fortune and good looks.

Science has its own interpretation. Aurora displays occur when charged particles collide with gases in the Earth’s atmosphere around the magnetic poles. These explosive flashes of light change colour depending on whether ions hit oxygen (creating a green or red glow) or nitrogen (giving off blue light). Different strengths of activity are measured by a Kp-index on a scale from 0 to 9, with 3 and above promising a proper spectacle. i Look up: a sighting of the northern lights isn’t guaranteed but there are ways to make it more likely

No two shows are ever the same. From late August until April, when dark nights return to the northern hemisphere, aurora hunters devote hours to chasing these magical performances, which everyone should witness at least once in their life. Whether cruising along frozen coastlines, hiking through snow-dusted forests or driving across borders in pursuit of clear skies, searching is part of the adventure. Aware that focusing on the lights alone is a gamble, creative operators and hoteliers have come up with clever ways to incorporate other activities. Beyond dog-sledding, snowmobile rides and reindeer safaris, new itineraries are emerging. Sail on a fishing boat and look out for orcas; dip into geothermal pools surrounded by spruce trees; or take to the skies in a hot-air balloon.

Accommodation is now varied, offering more than a wood cabin or a Sami lavvu tent. From stargazing in a glass-roofed igloo to luxuriating in a spa suspended in a river, everything is geared towards seeing the aurora. There’s no guarantee these fickle dancers will pirouette out for you, but you can maximise your chances with careful planning. Here’s our aurora seeker’s guide.